Cannoli!!

Today is my husband's birthday. Instead of making him a cake this year, I am putting together an Italian dinner, complete with his two favorite things, lasagna and cannoli. A few years ago we went back to New York for my sister's wedding, and since he'd never been, we left our then 2 year old at my other sister's in Nyack, booked a room in the city, and had my younger sister give us a one-day marathon tour. I have always loved Little Italy, and so a point was made to visit and buy at least one cannoli. Those ricotta-filled cookies made quite the impression! He'd never had one before, and upon leaving, he was always talking about them or on the lookout in case we'd run into one elsewhere. I have found these treats on the West Coast, but it always seems like the restaurants buy the shells premade and fill them with their "homemade" cannoli cream, and they're never quite on par with ones that are authentic and made-from-scratch.

Right after our East Coast trip I was in a kitchen shop (imagine that!) and came across some cannoli forms (6" metal tubes about 1" in diameter). I got really excited and bought a package for his stocking for Christmas. When he opened them I promised I would make his favorite treat. Good thing I didn't specify when, because it has taken me this long to finally get around to it! These came together quickly, taking me about one hour from start to finish, and my biggest challenge was keeping my two-year-old away from the hot oil and regulating the temperature, while also rolling out the dough (and keeping little fingers from swiping pieces). Fryers are nice because they keep a steady temperature, but I refuse to buy one since I never fry food (with this one exception)! I used a candy thermometer and a heavy pot, and the slight variances in heat didn't seem to matter, since I was watching them carefully anyway.

Cannoli with Fresh Ricotta Filling

1 3/4 cups unsifted all-purpose flour

1/2 tsp salt

2 tbsp granulated sugar

1 egg, lightly beaten

2 tbsp cold butter

4-6 tbsp sweet white wine*

1 egg white, lightly beaten

oil for deep frying

Stir together flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Using a pastry blender, cut the butter in until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Make a well in the center; pour in the egg. Stir with a fork to moisten. Add wine, 1 tbsp at a time, until dough just begins to cling. Knead a little bit to get it to form a ball (the surface will be somewhat dry, but will relax). Cover and let stand 15 minutes.

Cut the dough into four equal pieces. Cover three, and place one on a well floured surface. Roll out to 1/16" thickness and use a cookie cutter to cut into large circles (cutter should be about 3 1/2", but you may use a smaller one if necessary...the process will take longer to fry, however). Roll a circle into an oval shape. Place the oval on the cannoli form, moisten an edge with the egg white, and press to seal.

Heat oil to 375 degrees. Fry 2-3 cannoli shells at a time until golden, about 1 minute. Remove with tongs to a paper towel-lined tray to drain, let cool for a minute or so, and gently slide the form out of the cookie. Repeat with remaining dough. Cool completely before filling.

Fluffy Ricotta Filling

3 cups homemade ricotta, unsalted

1 cup heavy cream, whipped until stiff peaks form

zest of 1 orange and 1 lemon, preferably organic
1 1/2 cups powdered sugar, plus extra for garnish

2-3 tsp vanilla extract

1/4 cup finely chopped good quality dark chocolate (Merckens, Guittard, Scharffenberger, Green and Black's, etc.)

Using a hand mixer, beat the ricotta until the lumps start to break up. Add the powdered sugar, lemon and orange zest, and vanilla. Beat well to combine, until smooth. Fold in the whipped cream and chocolate pieces. Chill at least 2 hours to allow flavors to blend.

To assemble cannoli, scoop filling into a large plastic bag (or a pastry bag fitted with a large circular tip). Cut the corner off and pipe into shells. (You can use a spoon, of course, but the result will not be as pretty or smooth.) Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve immediately. The filled cannoli will get soggy if made too early, so assemble them right before your dessert will be served or before the party starts! If desired, you may dip the ends in additional chopped chocolate or pistachios. Candied cherries are also a traditional garnish.

Makes about 32, but yield will be determined on the size of cutter you use.

*The original recipe calls for Sauternes, a very sweet white wine. I had to go to a specialty wine shop to find it, and it was a very small bottle for $25. The grapes used to make that type of wine are left on the vine to an almost pre-raisin state to make it that sweet, hence the higher price. I have read about people using pinot grigio with excellent results, and I'm sure any sweet white wine will be fine. I used a moscato d' asti with the bubbles stirred out. I absolutely love Cascinetta Vietti, 2009, and since it was sitting almost right next to the bottle of Sauternes and was $18, I decided I'd get the wine that I can have a glass of with my cannoli (it matches very well, by the way, being a dessert wine) and left the other for someone else.